Whitehorse and the Northern Lights 08/31/2019

The ride out of Haines was absolutely drop-dead gorgeous.  After crossing the border without any issues we made the long climb to Chilkat Pass, elevation 3,510 feet, to stop and take our scavenger hunt photo.  The last few days we really noticed the difference in the foliage that was now showing her beautiful autumn colors.  The Haines Highway was tiring to drive with all of the frost heaves and potholes but absolutely gorgeous.  The scenery was so different from our last stop in Whitehorse which was only slightly more than a month previous. 

Continue reading “Whitehorse and the Northern Lights 08/31/2019”

Whitehorse 07/25 – 07/27/2019

We got another early start heading to Whitehorse.  We like leaving early so that we can take our time sightseeing, and looking for wildlife.  I appreciate going slower so we don’t bounce around as much!  And there are always some that catch us before we arrive at the campground.  We did stop for another photo op at the Continental Divide.  This one is different that previous ones as the routes are to the Pacific Ocean or the Arctic Ocean (not Pacific or Atlantic).  We saw a bald eagle, brown bear and moose on this part of the trip, but were unable to get any photos.  I did hear there were quite a few more broken windshields so the mobile repair unit was scheduled for at least 8 more rigs. 

Whitehorse is the capital and only city of the Yukon territory.  It was incorporated in 1950 and located at kilometer 1426 on the Alaska Highway in southern Yukon.  Whitehorse’s downtown and Riverdale areas occupy both shores of the Yukon River which originates in British Columbia and meets the Bering Sea in Alaska. The city was named for the White Horse Rapids for their resemblance to the mane of a white horse near Miles Canyon.  The rapids disappeared after thee river was dammed.  Miles Canyon’s basalt cliffs are to the south, site of a former gold rush town. 

We had time once we arrived to explore some of downtown Whitehorse.  We easily found the White Pass & Yukon Route station where we could recreate one of Randy’s 1966 pictures.  We visited several RV, tire and truck shops looking for a center cap to replace the one we lost a few days ago.  And Randy picked up more DEF just in case.  So far it has only been available at a few of the stations where we have stopped.  Most of the truck fuel stations require a specific pass that is only available for commercial vehicles.

We had a good dinner at Klondike Rib & Salmon with Mitch and Kate.  They did not have any Bloody Mary’s on the menu but instead had Caesar’s which are similar except they are made with Clamato juice instead of tomato juice.  Their Caesar salad was great.  The salmon and rib dinner Randy had was good.  He said the salmon was the best ever, the ribs were OK.  I was very disappointed in the halibut that I got.  It was dry and did not have a lot of flavor. The brownie we had for an early celebration of Randy’s birthday was great!  

I tried to make Randy a good breakfast for his birthday but we again had electric issues.  The surge protector keeps shutting off our electric when we have spikes in the voltage.  I was able to get the sausage and 3 pancakes made that we shared before our bus tour of downtown Whitehorse.  Our first stop was at the SS Klondike, a national historic site in Whitehorse.  The Klondike sternwheeler ran freight between Whitehorse and Dawson City along the Yukon River.  The first between 1929 to 1936 until it ran aground in June 1936 north of the Thirty Mile section of the Yukon River.  The company salvaged the ship’s boiler, engines and upper sections to build the Klondike II.  The Klondike II continued to carry freight between 1937 – 1950.  Once the highway connecting Dawson City and Whitehorse was completed, trucks replaced the sternwheelers for the most economical way to ship freight.  The Klondike II had a short life as a cruise ship but was eventually shut down in 1955 when it could not generate enough interest to remain solvent.  The Klondike remained in the Whitehorse shipyards until it was donated to Parks Canada.  It was restored and in 1966 the city authorities moved the ship to its present location.  At the time, the new location was part of a squatters’ area.  Three bulldozers, eight tons of Palmolive soap to create greased log rollers, and a crew of twelve men and three weeks were needed to move the Klondike.  Randy was excited to hear this story during the tour since he had pictures of the sternwheeler being moved when he was here in 1966, but he was not sure of the history.  We sent the photos to Parks Canada for their use. 

Our next stop on our tour was the Whitehorse Fishladder and Hatchery that opened in 1984 to provide a way around the dam for the migrating chinook salmon that have returned to spawn.   Some of the returning chinook salmon are removed from the fishway where eggs and sperm are collected and mixed. The fertilized eggs are incubated over the winter and the fry are released in the spring into steams in the Yukon River system.  You can determine the wild fish from the raised fish because the adipose fins are clipped and a tiny coded wire is inserted on the raised fish. 

After the tour of the Fishladder we toured downtown Whitehorse with a stop at the Visitor Center and a quick stop at an overlook at Miles Canyon.  By that time, it was raining so no one wanted to get out 

Based on Larry’s recommendation we went to 98 Hotel for Randy’s birthday drink.  It is a local bar that I am not sure I would not have gone into without Randy, but everyone was very nice.  Randy got his free Caesar and another couple there that were also traveling bought the next round.  Of course, we had to buy the next round so Randy was very happy by that time.  We went back to Klondike Rib & Salmon which was only a short block away where we had another great dinner.  Their halibut chowder was one of the best soups, ever!  We both ordered salmon skewers so we were not disappointed.  And we had to have dessert so we tried their sourdough bread pudding with caramel sauce and ice cream which was also great. 

We spent the last morning in Whitehorse at the MukTuk Sled Dog Kennel with a Taste of the Yukon Lunch.  Muktuk Adventures provide various experiences based on time allowed and season.  Since it was summer time, they do not do any dog sledding but we did hear about how the dogs are used in their business, dog sledding history and background on the Iditarod and Yukon dog sledding races.  Many of the 140 dogs at the kennel were rescue dogs.  While they are not used in dog sledding racing at this time, they are used in camping and dog sledding excursions.  During our lecture one dog in particular took a liking to me and spent quite a bit of time laying across my feet.  We got a chance to interact with the dogs and most were very friendly; however, a few were very shy.  I was amazed that they all know their individual names!  While I am not a fan of any dog being chained to their doghouse, the dogs seemed very well cared for and in good physical condition.  The owner did say that chaining dogs to their kennels has been outlawed in other countries but he believes the use of kennels with outdoor runs has led to more dog fights and more aggressive dogs. The tour ended with a Yukon style lunch of blueberry and elk sausage and candied salmon appetizers, bison burgers with salad and fixings, and ended with brownie and ice cream.  Yum!

On our way back from the MukTuk kennel, we stopped at the Yukon Wildlife Preserve.  We are glad we took the bus tour, because the guided tour was very informative.  The 5 km walk would have taken quite a bit of time, especially because of all of the hills.   We were lucky that our tour coincided with the once a day feeding so many of the wildlife actually approached the fence for their food.  I am sure we may not have seen as much of the wildlife as we did without following the staff as they fed the animals.  We were told the feeding occurs at slightly different times every day and that it may or may not coincide with any of the tours. 

We still had enough time in the day that Randy could do a quick walk over the swinging bridge at the Miles Canyon.  We knew we had a long drive the next day so Randy dumped and disconnected as much as we could so that we could get out early.  At our travel meeting, Randy was surprised with a small chocolate cake to celebrate his birthday.  I had told Carol and Debbie that it was OK to do this late as there was not any caravan meetings on his birthday and since we had plans for the evenings, this would be the best time to celebrate

Continental Divide
Caribou along the road
Lots of Bridges to Cross
This is one of the better bridges
Welcome to Whitehorse
Randy in 1966 and 2019
White Pass & Yukon Route Station
Monument in Whitehorse
Totem Pole in Whitehorse
Firefighter’s Monument in Whitehorse
Firefighter’s Prayer
Its not a Bloody Mary, its a Caesar
Klondike Paddlewheeler
Klondike
Top deck of the Klondike
Historic Photo of moving the Klondike
Klondike’s Menu
Where meals were prepared aboard the Klondike
Ready for meals
Power Plant at the Fish Ladder
Part of the Fish Ladder
You can view the fish in the ladder
Miles Canyon in the distance from viewing area
Miles Canyon and White Horse Rapids viewed from the overlook area
Drinks at the 98 Hotel Since it was his birthday, the bar bought the first Casear, We met another couple at the bar, that bought the second. Randy bought the third and then I said it was time for dinner. Back to the Klondike Rib & Salmon.
Back to the Klondike Rib & Salmon. Sourdough Bread pudding for dessert this time.
There were a lot of dogs at the Muk Tuk Sled Dog Kennel
Dogs at the MukTuk Sled Dog Kennel
Sled dog demonstration
The dogs loved everyone!
All the dogs wanted some loving!
Yukon Wildlife Preserve
Shedding for their summer coat
The preserve was home to several different types of foxes.
Moose
Welcome to Miles Canyon
Miles Canyon
Miles Canyon, bridge in background
Randy took a quick walk over the swinging bridge.
Miles Canyon